Naples - A Port Packed with Passion

Naples is Perched on the Tyrrhenian Sea. 1

Naples is a fiery native population, roasting hot summer days and a history of deadly nearby volcanic explosions. Its innovative chefs used their wood-burning ovens to bake the world's first pizza to perfection, one of the city's proudest claims to fame. As rich in its welcoming and vibrant atmosphere as in its architectural and natural history, Naples is one of the world's most ancient cities, bearing the imprint of the classical Greek and Roman civilizations. Naples is in some ways typically Italian, there is an ease with fashion, chaotic traffic – the best description of which is absolutely 'survival of the fittest' – and strong family values. Residents of the seaside city are also proudly Neapolitan. They have a language distinct from Italian; currently undergoing a renaissance thanks to local writers and musicians popularising its use. Indeed the city itself, a charming ramshackle of bits and pieces from various dynasties that becomes greater than the sum of its parts, is more reminiscent of a north African port than a southern Europe one. The city stands on the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea and is the capital of Campania. One million people call Naples home with a further 3.2 million living in the surrounding municipal area. They all run the gauntlet of Vesuvius, the volcano which towers above the city and has forged a reputation for violent eruptions, with the best known being the dramatic destruction of the nearby settlement of Pompeii in AD 79. A more sinister danger is the notorious Camorristi mafia. Contact with the Don and his chums can be avoided if seedy areas of town are given a wide berth.

HISTORY

	The Castle of the Egg Guards Naples' Port. 2

Greek Naples
The impact of the Greeks can be seen on the streets of the city and heard in the words of the Neapolitans. The first settlers of the area were Greek seamen who had set out from the island of Rhodes in search of more fertile pasture. These pioneers built the Castle of the Egg (Castel dell'Ovo), which provided protection for the first incarnation of Naples, known as the mercantile settlement of Parthenope. Parthenope grew in size following the migration of more Greeks after the fall of another Campanian settlement named Cuma. It was at this time the city was dubbed Neapolis, meaning new city. Learning the lesson of Cuma, huge city walls were built, and it wasn't until the might of the Romans showed up on the doorstep in the 4th century BC that a new era of Naples began.

Roman Naples
Rome appreciated Naples not only for its strategic Tyrrhenian position but also for it's natural beauty; somewhere to take a break from the serious business of running a brutal, worldwide empire. Emporers Caesar and Tiberius were among the first to build one of Italy's original resorts with much of the construction taking place during the time of Christ. Many luxurious villas were built on the coast, and Naples' modern day neighbours of Sorrento and Amalfi retain the same spirit of relaxation that the great emperors enjoyed. As a favoured part of the Roman Empire, Naples benefited greatly from investment, with modern roads to Rome resulting in increased trade. An upgrade to the city's sewage and aqueduct system also improved the quality of life for ordinary Neapolitans. It is said that during the time of Christ, St. Paul and St. Peter passed through the city with their teachings, resulting in the construction of Christian basilicas including the ancient San Gennaro extra Moenia, which dates to the 5th century.

Medieval Naples
Following the fall of the Roman Empire in 476 there was a series of barbarian raids on Naples, which remained mostly independent until 1137 when it became part of Roger II's kingdom of Sicily. Progressive leader Frederick II, a Sicilian king who ruled from Naples, made the city an intellectual capital, founding a university in 1224, but his stay was short-lived. Pope Clement IV sponsored an invasion in 1266, installing the Anjou family as rulers of the Kingdom of Sicily and Naples. A rebellion in Sicily in 1284 ripped the Kingdom in two, with Spanish nobleman King Peter III of Aragon moving in to quell the Sicilian rebellion and claim the island for his own. An uneasy quiet existed for awhile, but the two rival families soon came to blows again in 1442 and the Anjou lost Naples when they were defeated by the invading Aragonese. Fortunately, the rule of Aragon was long and fruitful and Naples blossomed again as an important trading port. At the time of the Renaissance, arts in the area flourished.

The Population of Naples Exploded Under Spanish Rule. 3

Spanish and Bourbon Naples
When the Aragonese were absorbed into the Kingdom of Spain, so was Naples. The first of the Spanish viceroys, Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, arrived in 1502. Further stability caused the population to triple to 300,000 from 100,000, making Naples the second largest city in Europe, behind Paris. Despite this boom, trouble was brewing amongst the populace who thought the Spanish rule too heavy handed. The increasingly cramped city exploded when the native Neapolitans, upset at yet another tax hike, rebelled under the leadership of Amalfi fisherman Tommaso Aniello in 1647. For a time, the Spanish were sent packing and the Neapolitan Republic was declared, with Naples appealing to France for protection. Less then a year later the Spanish returned and crushed the popular rebellion. With the Bourbon family now in control of the Spanish crown, a more even rule of Naples took place. Charles III undertook a programme of regeneration in the city.

Italian Independence
Regal power in Naples ended in 1861, when Italian patriot Giuseppe Garibaldi conquered the Kingdom of Sicily and the peninsula began to unite under the Italian name as the modern nation known today. Garibaldi was a key member of the Resurgence (Risorgimento) movement that fought for a united Italian state for most of the 1800s. In the years prior to 1815, the Italian Republic existed on much of the Italian peninsula under the banner of the Napoleonic Empire. Following the Empire's collapse in 1815, European nobility re-imposed the system of independent governments under the ultimate rule of the Austrian Habsburgs. A series of insurrections led to the revolutions against the Habsburgs and their supporters between 1848 and 1849. The Habsburgs moved quickly to quell these nationalist feelings and kept their subjects in order.

But a desire for a united Italy was still deep-rooted in the people of the peninsula and when the Piedmont Prime Minister Camillo di Cavour met with Napoleon III in the summer of 1858, the states of Italy, supported by the French, declared war on the Austrian overlords. During the campaigns of this war, Garibaldi conducted a siege of Naples and the Spanish rulers fled with loyalist troops on Sept. 6, 1861.

Modern Naples
Naples enjoyed a period of quiet until the outbreak of the Second World War. Again made a victim by its strategic importance, the city endured heavy aerial bombing until its liberation from Axis control. The 20th century saw four eruptions by Mount Vesuvius, with an incident in 1906 the most violent, spewing forth more lava than any other recorded eruption and killing over 100 people. These days, Naples is an important transportation hub and the surrounding area is also a major tourist destination. Perhaps the most famous recent exports have been the song 'O Sole Mio', the original lyrics to which are in Neapolitan, and the Margherita pizza.

ATTRACTIONS

A View from Pompeii with Vesuvius in the Background.4

Greco-Roman Treasures
On August 27, 79 AD, a cataclysmic eruption of Mount Vesuvius hurled forth lashings of magma and ash on the towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Such was the violence of the incident the towns were completely covered by molten rock and lost for centuries. A construction survey in 1599 discovered some remnants of the abandoned settlements, but it was not until 1738 that significant archaelogical digs were started. The two towns are extremely well preserved, right down to ancient graffiti etched on to the stone buildings. A trip to either place is akin to literally stepping back in time. The visitor here will find decadent villas decorated with frescoes and even plaster mouldings of their unfortunate owners. These castings were created from the voids left in the solidified magma by buried Pompeiians, their bodies decaying over the centuries while their rocky graves remained.

A collection of individual discoveries and finds of artistic importance can be found at the Naples National Archaeological Museum. There are several classical sculptures here including the Farnese Hercules, Atlas and Bull. Pompeii in particular was noted for its erotic art, and the museum has a secret chamber with all the juiciest examples.

Taking a short boat trip out of the port will take visitors to the island of Capri where there are ruins from Emporer Tiberius' holiday home, Villa Jovis. The Salto di Tiberio, at the rear of the villa, is said to be where malcontents and enemies were tossed over the cliffs and into the sea.

	The New Castle is one of Naples Most Imposing Structures. 5

Castles
There are several historic castles in Naples. The Castle of the Egg stands on a rocky island overlooking the city and was built in the 12th century by the Normans. The current incarnation stands on the site of a former Greek fortress and Roman villa. Once on the island visitors can get lost in the labyrinth of streets, most of which are lined with restaurants and cafes. In the centre of Naples, the New Castle is the best example of dynastic fortifications from the 13th century, when Charles I of Anjou set about protecting the capital of his new kingdom.

Churches
Perhaps the Neapolitans have a particularly large amount of repenting to do, but there are over 100 churches in the historic centre of Naples. The Cathedral (or Duomo) is the most prominent place of worship and is dedicated to St. Januarius (San Gennaro). Inside is St. Januarius' chapel, where his skull is kept along with two vials of congealed blood from when he was martyred. Neapolitans pray in the presence of the vials on the first Sunday of May. During the ceremony, the vials are placed near the Saint's remains and the blood changes from its dried state into liquid. Neapolitans believe that this apparent miracle ensures St. Januarius will answer their prayers and keep them safe from disasters. The building was commissioned by the Anjou family in 1272, but suffered badly during an earthquake in 1456. Various alterations have been implemented over the years to keep the cathedral standing, with an 18th century Neo-Gothic facade constituting the last makeover.

Despite being one of the most altered churches in Naples, the church of Santa Chiara remains a symbol of local pride. Dating back to the 14th century, the church has been a victim of several earthquakes, overbearing architectural meddling and a disasterous incendiary bombing during the Second World War. After the conclusion of the hostilities, the building was rebuilt as close as possible to the original design and the works of art that survived the bombing remain inside.

The Church of San Lorenzo Maggiore was built in 1265, adding on to a 6th century basilica, and entombed within are some of the past nobility of Naples. Catherine of Austria rests within a particularly eye-catching mosaicked shrine. Discoveries from the Greco-Roman era have also been found beneath the church and important finds are displayed in the cloisters.

The Bourbon Legacy
Of all of the ruling classes, the Bourbon Spaniards left behind two of the most remarkable assets of pre-Italian Naples. Originally designed as a meeting place for the nobility and upper classes, Villa Comunale is now open for all to enjoy and retains its late 18th century grandeur. The gardens are well-landscaped and located within is Europe's oldest aquarium.

The Bourbons were enthusiastic patrons of the arts, and the San Carlo Theatre is the oldest working theatre in Europe. Opened in 1737, the theatre was lauded for its decadent interior and bold architecture. It now hosts operas, ballets and plays year-round.

The Original Pizza was Created in Naples.6

The Margherita
Foods similar to the modern day pizza have existed in this part of the world since Greek times, but the variation everyone knows and practically everyone loves was created in Naples by baker Raffaele Esposito on the occasion of a royal visit. Of the three pizzas presented to her, Queen Margherita of Savoy most preferred the simple but delicious version that has a doughy base smeared with tomato sauce, topped with buffalo mozzarella and garnished with basil. The red of the tomatoes, white of the mozzarella and green of the basil rather patriotically referred to the Italian flag. Esposito named this pizza after the Queen and it became the original from which all contemporary pizza springs. Worldwide popularisation of the dish occured thanks to the large number of Neapolitan immigrants to the United States of America and especially Little Italy in the lower Manhattan area of New York.

Naples' Artistic Culture
Several influential artists have called Naples home or been inspired by the vibrancy and location of the city. Many are showcased at the National Museum & Gallery of the Capodimonte. Of all the artists connected to Naples, it is perhaps Caravaggio who has the greatest reputation. Exceptionally gifted, to describe the native Milanese as a loose cannon is the understatement of the century. After arriving in Rome without a penny to his name, Caravaggio began painting hack-work for Giuseppe Cesari, one of Pope Clement VIII's favourite artists. Even in these early works Caravaggio displayed a fantastic sense of detail and also a fascinating ability to convey emotion and feeling. Caravaggio's stature grew and he left the tutelage of Cesari to learn from others. He began to pick up a great number of religious themed commissions and, due to the psychological nature of his work, produced some moving scenes depicting violent struggles, grotesque decapitations, torture and death.

Caravaggio had a reputation for brawling that more than matched his artistic clout. In 1606 he was responsible for the death of a young man named Ranuccio Tomassoni in Rome. Caravaggio fled to Naples and continued to paint, safely away from the jurisdiction of Roman authorities. During his time in Naples he was the target of an assassination attempt by persons unknown. Left horribly disfigured from fisticuffs with the local authorities who bashed and cut his face, Caravaggio was still moved to paint and even included his own altered features in a work called Salome with the Head of John the Baptist. Caravaggio died in 1610 under suspicious circumstances on a journey to receive a pardon for his misdeeds in Rome. His body was never found and conflicting reports as to his cause of death were circulated. Despite his intense life, or maybe because of it, Caravaggio kick-started the Baroque movement and had a major impact on the history of art.

	Locals Maintain a Streetside Shrine to Maradona. 7

Another of Naples' flawed geniuses is its favourite adopted son, Diego Armando Maradona – known as El Diego. Born in an Argentine shanty town in 1960, Maradona was identified as being a footballer of some promise at the age of 10. He was just 15 when he played his first professional game for Argentinos Juniors. An incredible 116 goals in 166 games was all the motivation Argentina's most famous team, Boca Juniors, needed to purchase him. He won the league with Boca and soon the big bucks were beckoning and he headed to Europe to join Catalan giants Barcelona. His stay in Spain was not easy, he contracted hepatitis and almost had his career ended by a dangerous tackle by an opponent. Despite a healthy goalscoring record, Barcelona were happy to let him go to ambitious Italian team Napoli.

Napoli were not well-known in Italy for their football and the signing of Maradona was a major coup. The diminutive Argentine was instrumental in Napoli's capture of its first ever Italian league title in 1987, a feat repeated in 1990. Maradona also led his native country to World Cup glory in 1986. These accomplishments were enough to ensure the adoration of the Neapolitans, even when he left the club after serving a 15-month ban for taking cocaine. Despite the scandal surrounding him, Maradona is regarded as one of the finest footballers in the history of the game, thanks to his success at home, in Italy and at the World Cup. The Neapolitans maintain a shrine to El Diego, which includes a lock of his hair, on the streets of the city.

TRANSPORTATION

Naples International Airport is a major hub and operates domestic, European and international flights. The airport is just 6 km (3.8 mi) north of the city with regular buses linking it to the city centre. Taxis are also readily available from the terminals. The central train station (Stazione Centrale) is a major base for TrenItalia, the Italian national rail carrier, and has regular service to Rome and most other parts of Italy. Italy's trains are modern, fast and efficient, and Naples has a fully integrated public transport system with buses, trams and an underground system, covered by single tickets that are transferable between modes for 90 minutes. Daily travelcards are also available.

Capri is Accessible by Boat.8

Official taxis in Naples are white in colour, have a metering system and bear the city's coat of arms on their doors. They are always a better option than unlicensed taxis. Thanks to downtown traffic congestion it is often quicker to walk or take the metro. Driving in Naples should only be undertaken by those with nerves of steel. No quarter on the streets is given, rules are regularly ignored and the streets are rammed with people going nowhere. Add into this lethal mix non-existent parking and the ubiquitous scooter darting in and out of the traffic and it's easy to see why public transport is a better option for most.

Boats to Capri and along the coast are plentiful with both public transit options and private firms vying for the business of visitors.

CLIMATE

Summer in Naples is hot, but made more bearable by the cooling breeze that comes from being a coastal city. September is cooler than July and August, and is an excellent time to visit thanks to the modest heat and off-peak prices. The rainiest of days are from October to January, but there are seldom excessive downpours, usually just showers blowing off the Tyrrhenian Sea.

January and February are the coldest months with the temperature dropping close to freezing but with the moist sea air hovering around it can feel much colder. March sees the emergence of springtime and a jump in temperatures to a level that cafes will start to put tables and chairs outdoors.

April to June is balmy without being excessively hot and good deals can usually be had on flights and accomodation as Naples begins to gear up for its busy summer period.